Le Marche Recipes: Stoccafisso all’Anconetana

“Stoccafisso” is cod dried by sun and wind (not salted) in the Loftens Islands, Norway. The method is simple and totally natural.

Cod Fishermen Drying and Salting Fish on the Newfoundland Coast, c.1700

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The fish becomes extremely durable and can be stored for several years, in the past it was even used instead of money: ships built in Ancona were paid with cargoes of stockfish.

Ancona is one of the biggest stockfish importers and Stoccafisso all’Anconetana has a special place in the heart of Ancona people and in the history and tradition of this town.

This traditional Le Marche recipe involves soaking the fish for at least 24 hours and cooking it with bamboo canes on the bottom to avoid sticking to the pan.

The canes have then to be amorously washed and reused.

I recently discovered the "Accademia dello Stoccafisso" (Stockfish Academy), a club that promotes traditional food and recipes.

I had a chance to speak with two eminent members of the Academy during a culinary meeting and I asked them about the best stoccafisso restaurants in Ancona.

They told me that sadly the number of stockfish "trattorie" has declined lately, but still the the tradition is kept alive by few of excellent restaurants.

Gino, in front of the Ancona railway station, despite its slightly faded look is the mecca of any serious stoccafisso seeker. Booking is advisable due to the popularity of the place. The number 071-41157

A more fashionable alternative is restaurant Cardeto, located in the center of Ancona, via Cardeto, telephone 071-2074664.

Here is one of Le Marche recipes to cook the stoccafisso at home.

Ingredients:

1 kg (2 pounds) of soaked stockfish

500 gr. (1 pound) of ripe tomatoes

500 gr. (1 pound) of potatoes

1 glass of white wine (preferably Verdicchio)

1 onion, 1 clove of garlic, 1 carrot, parsley, rosemary, anchovies, capers, salt, pepper

olive oil
Soaking the stockfish is time consuming and rather smelly, so if you have a chance to buy it soaked, jump at it.

If you can’t find it ready, soak the stockfish in water for at least 24 hours, changing the water often.

Clean, wash and cut the stockfish into pieces.

Prepare the seasoning: cut finely an onion, a carrot, a clove of garlic, anchovies, capers, some rosemary and a handful of parsley.

Cut the tomatoes and the peeled potatoes in large pieces.

Pour a generous dose of olive oil in a large nonstick pot, and lay the stockfish pieces on the bottom, with the skin facing the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with the seasoning, salt and pepper.

Alternate layers of tomatoes, potatoes, stockfish, seasoning, olive oil and salt and pepper.

The last layer will be of potatoes.

Add a glass of wine and let the open pot cook over medium heath for half an hour.

When the liquid will be partially evaporated, cover the pot and let simmer on very low heath for about two hours.