Places to Visit in Italy: San Ginesio e L’Infernaccio
Some of the most interesting places to visit in Italy are not necessarily famous but a little out of the way like the little hill towns of Le Marche region.San Ginesio is one of these hidden gems, actually we discovered it almost by chance, coming back from an excursion on the Sibillini mountains. We had set our mind to doing the ascent through the Infernaccio gorge to the Eremo of San Leonardo in the Montemonaco area. Infernaccio means hell and indeed the wild gorge with its dramatic landscape has a savage charm.
After a two hour march we arrived at the top only to discover that we had forgotten our provisions and there was no way to quench our thirst or comfort our empty stomachs.Everything was forgotten and forgiven though when we met the resident hermit of San Lonardo. We had been told that he lived there in loneliness and payer but we were not quite sure about what to expect. We found him standing in a circle of people, merrily chatting and laughing with everyone and looking remarkably at ease in this social gathering for someone that had chosen to live in seclusion.
But the most remarkable thing about the old men was his serene smile and an aura of happy peacefulness. The good vibes about him where almost tangible and everyone was anxious to exchange a word with the hermit. We then discovered he had spent on that mountains twenty six years rebuilding the ancient monastery using only his hands, ingenuity and God’s help . We also found out to our relief that he had managed to bring running water up there and we could finally have a drink of the most delicious water.
Anxious to find something to eat, we rushed our descent from the mountain and at the first village on the road we were directed to the festa della trebbiatura, a harvest festival in a nearby farm that grows biological wheat and bakes bread using the pasta madre leavening technique. On our way to the coast we followed an inspiration and we stopped at San Ginesio.
This hill town is proudly forming part of the Italian association of beautiful villages. The villagers pride is justified because San Ginesio is a miraculously well preserved little town with a beautiful square, a delightful opera house and an unusual Romanesque church with a richly terra-cotta decorated portal. But it is when you get to the public gardens that the stunning view takes your breath away. From this natural terrace the eye goes all the way to the Gran Sasso and Sibillini mountains in a spectacular an unforgettable sight.
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